Desi street food in London (and beyond)

Sounds (and tastes) pretty nice, just like the yoga-asanas, jhal muri from Kolkata enters English palates (and hopefully lexicon). Perhaps Londonistanis can compare notes and serve a few new pointers as well.

So what’s on the menu? Horn OK Please has been proudly serving dosa
and chaat since 2011; along with the classic Indian soft drinks like
Thums Up and Frooty that both delight the uninitiated and make long-time
fans come over all nostalgic. Rava, rice, and mung dosas, bhel puri,
pani puri, aloo tikki and samosa chaat form the core of a menu that’s
won them a legion of hardcore supporters.

When it comes to influences, Angus Denoon of The Everybody Love Love
Jhal Muri Express
draws his from Kolkata’s culinary artisans. He learned
his finely-honed craft in that city, observing and absorbing. Angus
might be an Africa-born, British bloke; but, as many delighted customers
insist, his heart is Indian. As are his tools, and the gloriously gaudy
signs he commissions from his Bengal-based signwriter.
All that would count for little were his food not also authentic. His
chaat captures the streetfood spirit; freestyling, applying andaz,
ever-evolving. Signature jhal muri is shaken into newspaper cones,
puchkas are piled onto palm leaf plates, deep cups of ghughi dal feature
a layer of crispy muri, chewy coconut chunks and a thick thatch of sev.



Outside the capital, England is enjoying Indian street food fresh
from the Rajah Grill – ‘Urban Rajah’ Ivor Peters’ roving pop-up project.
Manchester has Aarti Ormsby’s Chaat Cart; Birmingham the Keralite
Pop-Up Dosa; and Leeds the unstoppable, award-winning Manjit’s Kitchen,
whose legendary Chilli Paneer Wrap now merely needs referencing by
acronym.

regards

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Brown Pundits Archive

Razib Khan is a Bangladeshi-American geneticist and writer. He is co-founder of Brown Pundits and runs Unsupervised Learning, a Substack on population genetics, evolution, history, and politics with more than 55,000 subscribers, alongside the accompanying podcast. He has blogged at Gene Expression since the early 2000s. His writing has appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian, National Review, Slate, India Today, Quillette, and UnHerd. He is Director of Operations at FUTO in Austin, Texas, and co-founder of GenRAIT, a life-sciences platform company. Earlier in his career he developed ancestry algorithms for Gene by Gene, the Genographic Project, and Insitome, and was among the first employees at Embark Veterinary. Born in Dhaka and raised in upstate New York and eastern Oregon, he holds degrees in biochemistry (2000) and biology (2006) from the University of Oregon, and undertook doctoral work in genomics and genetics at UC Davis. He lives in Austin.

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