Date:Â April 29, 2025 |Â Location:Â Dubai
Dear Friends,
Iâve been to Dubai countless times. I even got married here.

An Arabian Night
But this tripâtechnically for workâlanded differently. Something in the skyline had shifted. And this time, I saw it.
The City That Clicked
Dubai isnât a city in progress anymore. Itâs a city in command. The lighting, the landscaping, the infrastructure, the energyâafter decades of relentless building, it has finally snapped into harmony.

Celestial
For years, Dubai dazzled. Now, it breathes. Someone quipped to me, âHere, fuel is cheapâbut water is expensive.â They werenât wrong. I found myself driving 20km stretches without thinking twiceâdistances that, in the Home Counties, would take you through ten towns and two sets of speed cameras. Everything here is scaled differently: the lighting spectacular because energy is almost free, the landscaping evolving into more ânaturalâ forms with drip irrigation discreetly running through the sand. And the traffic? Dubai has less congestion than Calgary. That says everything.
The Sanitised Sublime
Itâs not Bangkok. Itâs Bangkok reimagined as Berlin. Clean. Optimised. Family-friendly. Where everything works, and everything works on time. You can have Michelin-grade Nihari, then watch a perfectly timed fountain show with your kids. And when the azaan sounds inside a mall, it isnât performative. It just is.

donât count the calories
Dubai has done something rare: Itâs built a hyper-modern city rooted in quiet cultural certainty. Islam and Arabic more are presentânot imposed, but wafting in the air.
The City-State Prototype
Dubai is no longer an outlier. Itâs a template. As the West hardens its immigration regimes, cities like Dubai will riseânot as alternatives, but as civilisational counter-offers.
- Mobile.
- Tax-efficient.
- Post-national but not post-cultural.
- Built to accommodate, not integrate.
And hereâs the twist:
Citizenship isnât the point.
Itâs a trade: ambition for access, labour for lifestyle. No illusions. No promises. Just clarity. If Dubai hits 10 million peopleâand itâs not far off (the population is doubling every 14years and it will hit 5mm in 2030, the larger S-A-D metropolitan area is nearly 6mm)âit becomes its own geopolitical organism. Not a city. Not a state. Something else.
The South Asian Spine
Letâs talk food. Because itâs always food that tells the truth. Dubaiâs South Asian influence isnât decorative. Itâs foundational. Karachi biryanis. Tamil filter coffee. Lahori breakfasts. Gujarati sweets. The subcontinent built the culinary identityâand the service infrastructureâof this place. Itâs empire, reversed. Migrants once served the metropoles. Now the metropoles run on migrants.
The Dubai Paradox
What makes Dubai work is also what makes it deeply ambiguous:
- Not a typical Western democracy (more Singapore and monarchy twinned).
- No path to citizenship.
- No permanent stake for those who power it.
And yet: it works. Because in an anxious, fractured world, certainty is its own kind of soft power.
Final Reflection
I still love tropical climes as holiday destinations. But Dubai is the easier version youâd take your parents toâor your children since everything is at your doorstep. Itâs not raw. Itâs rendered. And still, it feels very real (albeit being branded to the hilt). Beneath the gold and glass, Dubai has a spine. Not ideological. But civilisational. Rooted in the azaan. In Asian service culture. In the idea that modernity might not require erasure. This isnât just a city. Itâs a proof of concept. Not just for the Persian Gulf city-states. But for the world to come.
With care from the desert skies,
Z.
Lovely!! Good to read about something other than the never ending Ind-Pak paradigm đ
[…] Now imagine an alternative. Had Partition never occurred, Muslims in undivided India would number over 650 million todayâby far the worldâs largest Muslim population. Maybe Karachi would have been like Dubai? […]
I just passed by Dubai in January for 2 days. The Indian food there was amazing!!! The Hyderabadi Biriyani was astonishing. At my hotel, Citadines Culture Village Dubai, I ordered food delivered for only $12, and this included ice cream. So for once in my life, I felt like Oprah Winfrey having amazing biriyani and ice cream delivered to me in 15 minutes or so. Then I went on a tour to the Souks. That was OK. I had good Turkish food, good coffee, and met some nice people. What I was very surprised about Dubai were the following:South Asians from everywhere – India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan – all had businesses side by side to each other. I was pleasantly surprised that I saw a big Hindu temple, and they were selling flowers from an Indian-owned shop. There were many Indian businesses with Indian names. I’m under the impression that the Pakistanis and Indians all seem to get along in an environment that’s nothing like a powder keg. So many Pashtuns are there. In the USA, I never meet a Pashtun, but in Dubai, most of the Pakistanis seem to be Pashtuns.
I’m opposed to their wastefulness, their exploitation of South Asian laborers, and their lack of a citizenship pathway. However, I will say this, Emiratis and the Gulf Arabs whom I’ve met are very wonderful people. This is something that I’ve known about since 2016.
Haven’t been there in almost a decade, but the last time I was there, it felt…..artificial to me. Of course, my travel choices generally tend to be history/culture driven, which is where Dubai with its shiny ‘new-eyness’ singularly dissappoints.
Give me an Athens, Lima, Venice or even London, over Dubai any day. Because they have an identity of their own, not just a superficial razzle dazzle peopled by expat ‘guest workers’.